7 Plus Size Cottagecore/Dark Academia Sewing Patterns: Layers & Outerwear

February 20, 2021

7 Plus Size Cottagecore/Dark Academia Sewing Patterns: Layers & Outerwear

I feel like cottagecore started in March of last year and so aesthetically is very Spring and Summer-centric. Even now, deep into February, I'm only seeing a few Insta and Pinterest posts that show people actually wearing layers even when they're playing in the snow, but I have a few suggestions even this late in the year and they fit both a cottagecore and dark academia aesthetic. I included some heavier and lighter layers for a variety of weather situations. There are a few youtubers whose forays into sewing outerwear have made me more confident in tackling this slightly more complex project. FYI, most of them are historical sewists, so their recommendations are for sewing more accurately for bygone eras, but there's also tons of information about achieving a quality look, feel, and fit using those historical techniques, which I would like, even when I'm sewing contemporary patterns. I've listed their most helpful videos below:

Supplies 101: Tailoring and Historical Sewing by Nicole Rudolph

Adding Shape, Zipper, and Lining to a Boxy Jacket by Karina of Lifting Pins & Needles

Following a 1940s Coat Pattern by Angela Clayton

Remaking a Victorian Coat (or Tailoring is Hard) by Bernadette Banner

Sizing

I should also make a note about sizing; to qualify for this list, the patterns had to reach at least be in my own size range:
Bust: 54 in.
Waist: 50 in.
Hips: 60 in.
I also have a bias against knits as I haven't sewn with them before and a lot of my cottagecore love comes from historybounding eras that didn't use knit fabrics as much. HOWEVER, I have included one pattern for knit fabrics in this list!

The Patterns

Pattern: By Hand London Juliet Coat

Size Range: Bust 61.25" - Waist 56.25" - Hip 63.25" (D Cup Pattern)

What Makes It Cottagecore: Flared A-line silhouette, elegant shawl collar, single large button closure

Pattern: Sew Liberated Lichen Duster

Size Range: Bust 62.8" - Waist 62.8" - Hips 78"

What Makes It Cottagecore: shawl collar, princess seams

Pattern: Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Size Range: Bust 66" - Waist 67" - Hips 72"

What Makes It Cottagecore: This one is actually more Fill-in-the-blank Academia than anything, but with a classic blazer shape, it fits the aesthetic to a tee. Paired with a bottom made from a matching fabric, this would make a great suit piece.

Pattern: Muna and Broad Grainger Coat

Size Range: Bust 78.5" - Hip 80"

What Makes It Cottagecore: Quilting. While the example picture is pretty minimalist, a different fabric choice would give the Grainger a softer more romantic feeling.

Pattern: All Well Workshop Cardigan Coat

Size Range: Bust 80"

What Makes It Cottagecore: lightweight, simple classic cardigan shape that flatters any silhouette

Pattern: Butterick 6430 Connie Crawford

Size Range: Bust 68" - Waist 58" - Hips 76"

What Makes It Cottagecore: Empire waist, Princess seams, line of buttons

Pattern: Cashmerette Fuller Cardigan

Size Range: Bust 62" - Waist 60.625" - Hips 65"

What Makes It Cottagecore: the longer view gives collegiate academia vibes and the shorter view gives more romantic 50s cottagecore vibes.

Fabrication

Sometimes it helps to get an idea of what you want to use to make a pattern before you jump in, I've included fabrics in both classic cottagecore colors and a few darker colorways for us Gothy Ones. I have also included links to the Instagram hashtag for each pattern, check out how others have made these beautiful dresses! All fabric below is $16/yard or less at the time of this posting (I upped the price threshold in this post because quality outerwear fabric is just usually more expensive).

Knit Fabrics

The Fuller Cardigan calls for knit fabrics, which I am admittedly less familiar with, however I've done my best to feature fabrics that give that nice vintage sweater vibe. If you need more assistance see the resources below:

Choosing Knit Fabrics by Seamwork

How to Sew a Sweater by Anita by Design

Deep Brown Wool Blend Cable Knit

Off-White and Gray Striped Tactile Stretch Knit

Italian Turtledove and Parisian Night Striped Stretch Twill Knit

Lavender Mist Heavy 1x1 Cotton Rib Knit

Woven Fabrics

The Juliet Coat, Butterick 6430 Coat, and Heather Blazer all call for more studier traditional suiting fabrics like wool tweed, cotton twill,

Black/Pearl Twill Suiting

Kaufman Ventana Twill Solid Beryl Green

Black/Gold Check Suiting

Wool Blend Flannel Tweed Rose Pink

Solid Wool Blend Suiting Cloudy Blue

For the Lichen Duster and the shorter version of the All Well Cardigan Coat, I imagine slightly lighter weight, drapier fabrics like linen or linen/rayon blends would complement the shape of each pattern (though you could use any of the above fabrics as well for more structure).

7.1 ounce 100% Rustic linen in various colors

The quilted nature of the Grainger Coat and the longer version of the All Well Cardigan Coat open up a world of fun cotton prints and unique solids that are usually too lightweight for outerwear projects but can now be used since they will be combined with batting and another fabric layer.